Buyer’s Guide – Page 2 – Rock Climbing Central

Choosing the right shoe to climb or boulder is sometimes hard if you aren’t aware of the properties of climbing shoes. I’ve compiled a list of the 6 best indoor rock climbing shoes that you can buy in 2020 in different categories. In this article I’ll be talking about a few different aspects of each shoe. These aspects are: Overall Rating This is the overall rating of the shoe out of 5. The overall rating is specifically about the shoe as an all round climbing shoe for all different types of indoor climbing. It also takes into account all other aspects of the shoe below. Value This is how much the shoe is worth monetarily compared to how much I believe it’s worth when you apply it with the other aspects. Durability How long will the shoe last before it starts to break down? What materials make up the shoe? Comfort Can the shoe been worn all day without a problem or do they cause your heel and toes to ache? Precision This is where we ask if the shoes good enough at finding the smallest of foot holds and staying on them. So, what are the best indoor rock climbing shoes of 2019? The shoe that scored the best overall rating was the La Sportiva Miura. It’s a great all round shoe for all different types of climbing – indoor and outdoor! If you’re looking for a shoe that's comfortable and precise, the Scarpa Instinct VS is my go to for bouldering shoes, but as an all round shoe it’s definitely beaten by the La Sportiva Miura. If you’re on a tight budget but you still want a good enough climbing shoe, I would suggest you lean towards buying the Scarpa Velocity climbing shoes. If you’re more into sport climbing, the best pair of climbing shoes would probably be the Five Ten Anasazi Pro. If you’re a beginner and you’re still ‘being shown the ropes’ (sorry for the pun), then I would recommend the La Sportiva Tarantula for its comfort, value and moisture management. Finally, the most comfortable shoe out there that we can find without worrying about the other aspects too much is the La Sportiva Mythos, a classic known for its all day use and durability. For a breakdown of each shoe considering each aspect mentioned above, please continue reading. Links are included to Amazon where you can buy each shoe. All shoes mentioned are either unisex or have a women’s version. Page Jumps Best All Round Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva MiuraBest Bouldering Shoe – Scarpa Instinct VSBest All Round Budget Climbing Shoe – Scarpa VelocityBest Sport Climbing Shoe – Five Ten Anasazi ProBest Climbing Shoe for Beginners – La Sportiva TarantulaMost Comfortable Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Mythos Best All Round Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Miura Overall Rating – 5 out of 5 The La Sportiva Miura (link to check price on Amazon) is so versatile. It’s perfect if you only want one pair of climbing shoes for many different types of indoor climbing. Although it may not be the best bouldering shoe out there or even the best lead climbing shoe, as a jack of all trades shoe it really stands out. Alex Honnold also wears these shoes from time to time, so it shows these shoes can also work very well outdoors. Value The La Sportiva Miura doesn’t come cheap – it’s quite expensive, but the versatility that it offers is probably worth the money if you need an all round shoe that’s going to give you the edge on those more budget all round shoes. Durability I have a couple of friends who have had these for 1-2 years and have said the durability on these is absolutely incredible. One of them is thinking about getting his resoled sometime soon as he doesn’t feel the need to get rid of an expensive pair of shoes. As long as you’re treating this shoe correctly, they’ll last you a long time. The upper material on this shoe is made of leather – which as you probably know is very durable. The rubber used on the sole of the shoe is 4mm of Vibram© XS Edge which is a durable rubber. Comfort The shoes are quite uncomfortable when you’re breaking them in and stretching them with your feet. But to say the shoes are made of durable rubber on the soles and leather on the top, they’re surprisingly comfortable. If you were to wear them all day you might start to feel a bit of pain, but for short term climbing the shoe isn’t actually that bad. It’s got three Velcro straps which help you adjust the shoe to your foot’s shape. But as it’s a curved shoe, it will start to get uncomfortable after an hour or two. Precision The precision of these shoes are excellent. Sometimes you feel like you’re wearing no shoes at all because you know where your big toe is within the shoe, and you can feel exactly where to place it on even the thinnest of edges. If your foot slips off a hold you 100% cannot blame the shoe – it’s definitely bad footwork that caused the problem! Best Bouldering Shoe – Scarpa Instinct VS Overall Rating – 4 out of 5 As an all round climbing shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS (link to check price on Amazon) is good alternative to the Muira. It's very durable and holds a good amount of precision on the toe. It's the shoe I wear most because it’s, in my opinion, the perfect bouldering shoe! Don't get me wrong, there are more precise shoes out there for short, steep routes. But the Scarpa Instinct VS are so comfy for a more precise shoe. The Scarpa Instinct VS-R shoes are a substitute just as good. Value It’s quite an expensive shoe, but if you’re specifically looking for a bouldering shoe for indoors or outdoors then it’s worth the money. If you’re looking to buy climbing shoes that are more versatile, you should definitely go for the La Sporiva Muiras. These shoes are my favorite shoe because I boulder often. Durability The upper material is made of microfiber, which is lighter but less durable than leather. The Scarpa Instinct VS has been shown overall to have quite a bit of durability. This, unfortunately sacrifices a bit of precision. However, it's not enough for me to warrant buying more precise shoes and spending more money or losing too much comfort. Comfort The shoes are comfortable, however when your feet swell up due to heat you can really feel it as the shoes don't seem as stretchy as your typical beginner shoes. The Velcro straps on the shoe help make it easier to take the shoes on and off in between problems if the shoes get too uncomfortable. Precision If you’re looking for a sensitive or precise shoe then you will get one here, it isn't the best but for me it's precise enough alongside the durability and comfort of the shoe as well. Best All Round Budget Climbing Shoe – Scarpa Velocity Overall Rating 4 out of 5 Value The Scarpa Velocity (link to check price on Amazon) climbing shoe is definitely worth the money to say how cheap it is but how good it is for various different types of climbs. If you don’t want to spend much money but you want an all round shoe, here’s your answer. I wouldn’t use these outside though, they’re definitely for indoor rock climbing. Durability The shoe is generally quite durable if only used indoors, although the upper is made of microfiber – however the upper isn’t usually the problem when it comes to climbing shoes. These will last around 6 months to a year if you’re climbing 2 or 3 times a week. Comfort I had a pair of these a year or two ago and I can honestly say these were very comfortable. The shoe felt like a slipper and I never really had any problems on the wall with my toe or my heel. There are two Velcro straps to help adjust the shoe to your foot. I could spend all day in these without a problem. Precision Don’t rely on these for precision unless you’re going to get a smaller fit that sacrifices the comfort of this shoe. You can also tighten the Velcro straps for slightly more precision. Best Sport Climbing Shoe – Five Ten Anasazi Pro Overall Rating – 4 out of 5 The Five Ten Anasazi Pro (link to check price on Amazon) is ideal for indoor bouldering due to its aggressive arch and precise fit. It’s very good at edging and smearing on all holds due to the outsole being made of Stealth C4 rubber. There’s a Stealth Mi6 rubber toe patch on the shoe that is a super addition for toe hooking. It’s a great all round shoe. Value It’s not too expensive to say how good this shoe is at versatility especially when climbing indoors. It’s actually cheaper than the La Sportiva Miura but it just isn’t as good overall. If you want shoes specifically for sport climbing and/or overhangs then these are definitely the ones you want to go for. Durability The shoe is very durable due to the synthetic leather on the upper part of the shoe and 4.2mm worth of Stealth® C4™ rubber on the sole. Comfort The tongue of the shoe is made out of a breathable material to get rid of moisture. The toe isn’t downturned too aggressively so it’s generally quite comfortable. Precision Although the rubber is quite thick, due to the stickiness of the rubber the shoe is actually very precise. It’s also lightweight which is another bonus towards the precision of this shoe. The rubber toe patch that’s already been mentioned allows for very precise toe holds to be used. Best Climbing Shoe for Beginners – La Sportiva Tarantula Overall Rating – 3 out of 5 Value The La Sportiva Tarantula (link to check price on Amazon) is a very cheap climbing shoe, with a neutral sole that's quite comfortable and durable. It’s a great beginner’s climbing shoe. The shoe can be used indoors or outdoors for all different types of climbing and as a beginner’s shoe it’s actually quite precise. Durability The sole is made of FriXion® rubber which is said to be long lasting and I have heard from a few people who have had a pair that they’re happy with the durability as a beginner’s shoe. Comfort It’s a very comfortable shoe that has an unlined upper which is great for moisture management. Your feet won’t become mangled; however the shoe arch is aggressive enough for a beginner to perform at a good enough ability while feeling comfortable. Precision Obviously this shoe won’t be as precise as most of the others mentioned in this article – it’s a beginner’s shoe in a low price range. The comfort of the shoe sacrifices some of the sensitivity and precision. However, the FriXion® rubber is quite sticky compared to many of the other materials used in beginner’s shoes. Most Comfortable Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Mythos Overall Rating – 3.5 out of 5 The La Sportiva Mythos (link to check price on Amazon) is the best climbing shoe for comfort on the market today, but it lacks in precision for foot holds. If you’re looking for an all day shoe then this is your best bet, but you’re sacrificing some of your climbing ability. It’s another great shoe for a beginner who is happy spending a bit more money than they would on the La Sportiva Tarantula. Value The La Sportiva Mythos is still one of the best selling climbing shoes and you can see why – it’s not amazingly expensive and it’s very comfortable for all day use. Although you’re sacrificing precision for comfort, you can still climb in this shoe without too much of a problem. The durability of this shoe definitely makes it worth the money. Durability These shoes use laces and many people have commented on how durable the lacing system is. The outsole is made of Vibram which is known as a durable material when used in climbing shoes. The upper part is made of suede leather – a highly durable material that can be used in all terrain without much problem. This climbing shoe is highly durable. Comfort If you’re looking for the most comfortable shoe you can find while getting a bit of a climbing edge, then the La Sportiva Mythos is the climbing shoe for you. If you’re climbing all day then you shouldn’t have many problems indoors or outdoors with these. If your feet swell up due to heat, the leather will stretch with your foot. Precision Lacks precision on holds – good in cracks and general crag climbing, however bad at edging and smearing. I wouldn’t recommend more advanced climbers use this shoe.