If you’ve been rock climbing for a while now, then I’m sure you know the importance of chalk for increased friction and improved grip. Especially when temperatures are hot and hands are greasy, this substance helps to dry out the secreted oils and moisture. However, while searching for the right chalk product, you may have come across two major different types and were confused wondering which one to choose: liquid chalk and dry aka regular chalk. In this article, we’ll evaluate both of them to help you decide the right one for you.

So, is liquid chalk better than regular chalk for climbing? When you compare the pros and cons of each, liquid chalk has more advantages and fewer disadvantages. Therefore, it’s easy to determine that this type is better than regular chalk. However, your choice should largely depend on what you’re looking for because both of them have different qualities. For instance, if you’re looking for something that dries out your hands quickly and lasts longer then liquid chalk is the most suitable choice. But if you’re a beginner rock climber on a budget, and your hands are prone to over-drying and cracking, dry chalk may be the appropriate choice.

The rule of the thumb is evaluating your needs, comparing the pros and cons of each type, and choosing one that suits your specific needs or circumstances.

Page Jumps

• Pros of Liquid Chalk When Climbing
• Pros of Regular Chalk When Climbing
• What Situation is Liquid Chalk Better to Use when Climbing
• What’s the Difference Between Liquid Chalk and Dry Chalk?

Pros of Liquid Chalk When Climbing

Liquid chalk is antibacterial

Are you looking for something that will offer drying benefits as well as kill bacteria and other harmful elements on your hands? Then choose liquid chalk. One of the ingredients used to make liquid chalk is alcohol, which is well-known as an antibacterial agent. Especially during these times when we’re facing COVID-19, going with something that kills bacteria and viruses on your hands is a wise decision for enhanced safety against this disease.

Liquid chalk isn’t as messy

One disadvantage of dry chalk is that it leaves a mess on the floor after applying. When you grab some of it from your bag and apply it on your hands, some amounts may fall on the floor and require cleaning. That isn’t the case with liquid chalk. Since it usually comes in a tube, you just squirt a small amount on your palms and spread it all over your hands without leaving any mess.

Liquid chalk is smaller and lighter to carry than dry chalk

Rock climbing means you’re carrying your weight to the top. And since that itself can be very challenging, you surely don’t need additional weight pulling you down. That’s where liquid chalk comes to help; it’s smaller and lighter. You just need to put the tube in your pockets and get it whenever you need to re-apply. You won’t even notice you have it!

Liquid chalk lasts a long time on your hands

Another excellent quality about liquid chalk is its durability. It lasts longer on your hands compared to dry chalk. This can come in handy when you’re making a long, difficult climb and will have fewer chances of re-applying.

Liquid chalk is easier to clean off than regular chalk

When you use dry chalk, your palms absorb a lot of it, which means they’ll need a thorough cleaning after climbing. However, even though liquid chalk lasts longer, it only forms a small layer on your hands. What this means is that you can clean it easily without a lot of scrubbing.

Liquid chalk is easier to apply than regular chalk

As you rock climb, you’ll come across difficult routes that will have you sweating a lot. Since you’re already in a challenging position, you’ll need something easy to use. Liquid chalk’s liquid form makes it easier to apply an even coat onto your palms. This isn’t the case with dry chalk where you can struggle applying it and achieving an even coat.

Liquid chalk dries out your hands quicker than regular chalk

Other than easiness, another thing challenging routes demand is quickness. The more you wait, the more you get tired. If you need to dry out your hands first, liquid chalk is the most suitable choice. It contains alcohol which evaporates quickly, leaving you with moisture-free hands.

Better for your lungs

In addition to creating a mess on the floor, dry chalk can leave dust in the air. You should be concerned if you have respiratory problems such as asthma. Exposure to chalk dust can make you cough, wheeze, and have shortness of breath. Even if you don’t have any respiratory issue, chalk dust can carry other contaminants into your body and affect your health negatively. Liquid chalk doesn’t create any dust and thus contributing to better lung health. I’ve written an article on the scientifically studied, negative effects of dry chalk on peoples’ health which you can find here.

Does not cover your clothes with white marks

Dry chalk gets on almost everything you’re carrying on your rock climbing adventure. It gets on your clothes and other items, which means you’ll face the tough task of cleaning later. However, since liquid chalk is liquid, it doesn’t get on your clothes during application. And since it comes in a well-enclosed tube, it doesn’t leak to other items.

Better for deep water soloing

Let’s say you’re deep water soloing, and you accidentally fall into the water, what will happen to your bag of dry chalk? It will get wet and everything will be ruined. You may even lose all your chalk in the water. However, liquid comes in a tube impenetrable by water. Even if you fall to the deepest part of the water, your chalk will remain safe.

Pros of Regular Chalk When Climbing

Dry chalk is better for your skin

If you have sensitive skin that’s susceptible to over-drying and cracking, then dry chalk is better. We’ve already mentioned that liquid chalk contains alcohol and stays longer. What you need to know is that the longer it stays, the more it continues drying out your hands. That may not work well for people with sensitive skin.

Dry chalk can be stored in a chalk bag and application is easier when you’re on the wall

With a chalk bag strapped in your waist, the application process is very easy. All you need to do is dip your hands into the bag, grab a small amount, and rub it onto your palms and fingers.

Dry chalk does not spoil when left out in the air

One disadvantage of liquid chalk is that you can’t leave it out in the open for a long time. The ethanol in it can evaporate leaving a solid substance that you can’t use. Unlike liquid chalk, regular chalk doesn’t spoil when left out in the open.

Dry chalk doesn’t put you at the risk of eczema

We’ve already mentioned that alcohol is the ingredient in liquid chalk that makes your hands drier for longer. If you use it for a long time, the constant dryness can impact your body negatively and put you at the risk of eczema. Your skin may start feeling itchy and getting rough. However, dry chalk doesn’t contain alcohol, which means lower chances of eczema.

Dry chalk doesn’t contain Rosin

Apart from alcohol, another component contained in liquid chalk is rosin. It’s a type of resin from pine trees. This component can contribute to allergic reactions on the skin – you may find yourself with itchy skin inflammation after using this chalk type. That isn’t the case with dry chalk. It doesn’t contain Rosin and thus no Rosin-related allergies.

Gram for gram, regular chalk is cheaper

If you’re climbing on a budget, regular chalk is the cheaper option when you compare it gram for gram with liquid chalk. You can even get it at liquid chalk’s half price. However, if you’re looking for a great liquid chalk that’s not too expensive then check out the Metolius Super Chalk. Check out my recommended climbing chalks if you’re settled on dry chalk.

What Situation is Liquid Chalk Better to Use when Climbing

There are situations when liquid chalk is a superior choice. One instance is when you’re navigating longer climbs. A longer climb means you’ll need to apply chalk on your hands more often. Liquid chalk can significantly reduce the number of times you re-apply chalk on your hands because it lasts longer. The second situation is if you have excessively sweaty hands. With alcohol as one of its elements, liquid chalk provides better and quicker drying power. You can dry your palms faster and achieve a better grip in no time.

Are you also a climber who needs more room in the climbing pack outdoors? Then liquid chalk is a better option for you because doesn’t leave as many marks on the rocks. Some climbers want to find their own routes, and that is hard with the lots of marks left by dry chalk.

What’s the Difference Between Liquid Chalk and Dry Chalk?

The first difference between these two is the one you can tell by looking at their names – one is liquid, and the other is powdered. The second difference: liquid chalk is usually either calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate mixed with alcohol, rosin, and a thickening agent while dry chalk is magnesium carbonate and may contain added drying agents. The alcohol/ethanol in liquid chalk is what dissolves the Rosin and keeps the calcium carbonate in liquid form. When applied to your hands, the alcohol evaporates quickly and leaves a more solid substance to offer the much-needed friction and grip.

Is liquid chalk better than regular chalk? Overall, liquid chalk is better in most circumstances. The main exceptions are if your skin is prone to over-drying and if you would rather spend less. But when it comes to spending less on dry chalk, also consider that you’re more likely to lose dry chalk when applying than liquid chalk. Why don’t you try both of them to see which one works better for you?

Is liquid chalk safe? Yes, it’s completely safe to use apart for people with highly sensitive skin. You can try a small amount of it to know whether you’re allergic. If you’re not, then consider choosing this chalk type. It offers better drying power, doesn’t create any chalk dust, and leaves no mess, which makes it an excellent choice for indoor/gym climbing.

If you want to climb to the best of your level, finding the right climbing shoe for the style of climbing you’re undertaking is paramount. There are three different types of climbing shoe: neutral, moderate and aggressive. In this article we’re going to look at the difference between moderate vs aggressive climbing shoes and how each one can affect your climbing experience.

So what is the difference between moderate and aggressive climbing shoes? Moderate climbing shoes are usually more comfortable than aggressive climbing shoes; however aggressive shoes are more downturned on the toe giving you more sensitivity, edging advantage and overall performance. Aggressive shoes aren’t as good at crack climbing or smearing as moderate shoes, however due to the downturned shape. If you’re looking for crack climbing shoes or all-day comfort, you’d be better off with moderate shoes, for anything else it’s aggressive shoes.

Read on to find out more information regarding the differences of these two types of shoe, including the pros and cons and when you’d wear them. I will also include information on which specific moderate and aggressive climbing shoes I would recommend for all-round climbing.

Page Jumps

• What are Moderate Climbing Shoes?
• What are Aggressive Climbing Shoes?
• What is the Best All-Round Moderate Climbing Shoe?
• What is the Best All-Round Aggressive Climbing Shoe?
• Should You Buy Velcro, Lace-Up or Slip-On Climbing Shoes?

What are Moderate Climbing Shoes?

Moderate shoes have a more downturned toe than neutral shoes and are generally considered an “intermediate” shoe.  Neutral shoes are very flat and are used for beginners, so moderate climbing shoes can be used by those who believe they are in transition from being a beginner.

Due to the downturned shape of the shoe (aka camber), moderate shoes are a lot better at technical climbing than neutral shoes. This means they can handle slabs and overhangs without as much struggle. Moderate climbing shoes are used by many as “all-day” shoes because of the general comfort they offer while contributing a positive effect on challenging routes compared to neutral shoes.

Pros Compared to Aggressive Climbing Shoes

• The flat shape of moderate climbing shoes makes it a lot easier to jam your foot into a crack than aggressive shoes.
• The flat shape also has a better effect on smearing.
• The rubber on moderate climbing shoes is usually thicker than that of aggressive shoes offering more durability.

Cons Compared to Aggressive Climbing Shoes

• Unfortunately, if the climb is incredibly challenging due to tiny footholds or demanding toe hooks then you will probably struggle with moderate shoes.

What are Aggressive Climbing Shoes?

Aggressive climbing shoes are used by most professionals and high level climbers who aren’t climbing all day. This is because the downturned shape and the tightness of the shoe on the heel offers a lot of power throughout the foot when it’s on the wall. The rubber on aggressive shoes is usually very thin and sticky, offering a lot of sensitivity on the toes.

The downturned shape on aggressive shoes is very noticeable, which is both a good and a bad thing – whilst this can be very uncomfortable for the climber, it can also mean that their technical ability on certain routes shines through a lot easier.

Pros Compared to Moderate Climbing Shoes

• The downturned shape of aggressive climbing shoes offers a lot more technical ability to climb than moderate climbing shoes, especially on overhangs, gym climbing and when bouldering.
• Thinner and stickier rubber gives better sensitivity on the toe for smaller toe holds and pockets.

Cons Compared to Moderate Climbing Shoes

• Aggressive climbing shoes are generally not as comfortable as moderate climbing shoes due to the downturned shape.
• They are also not as good at smearing or jamming feet in cracks due to the downturned shape on the toe.
• Typically, aggressive shoes are less durable because of the thinner rubber than moderate shoes.

What is the Best All-Round Moderate Climbing Shoe?

Finding the best moderate shoes depends on what exactly you’re going for, so I’ve decided to give you the best all-round option. With moderate climbing shoes, I find there’s only really two reasons people choose them – comfort and performance. In that respect I believe I have the perfect climbing shoe. As an all-round climbing shoe, this shoe is the best moderate climbing shoe on the market, hands down.

La Sportiva Katana Lace

Based in Italy, La Sportiva is one of the leading climbing shoe manufacturers in the world. They bring innovative designs and high quality products. La Sportiva is a worldwide trusted brand providing top-notch climbing shoes, hiking shoes and other outdoor gear. The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one of the best climbing shoes on the market that has very versatile attributes for all your climbing needs.

• Shoe Type: Moderate
• Upper: Leather/synthetic leather
• Rubber: 4mm Vibram XS Edge
• Good for: Durability, versatility, comfort
• Bad for: Your wallet. The price is quite high.

The La Sportiva Katana Lace is a moderate shoe with a slightly downturned toe which helps to keep the foot glued into a pocket or pressed into an edge while also keeping the foot feeling comfortable. Due to the moderate arch, your feet feel flat and comfortable 90% of the time. The flatness is also good for crack climbing.

The heel of the shoe is tight, but not so much that you feel uncomfortable; in more of a way like a mother hugs a child she hasn’t seen for a while. This allows your toes to feel more precise as if the weight of your feet is being pushed from your heel down towards the front of your foot.

The Vibram XS Edge rubber on this shoe has made a name for itself as a glue that only unsticks when you pull your foot away. Like the La Sportiva Muira, the Katana has no wow-factor for any particular type of climbing, but it’s the versatility of this shoe that allows you to see its true value.

In terms of long routes and long lasting sessions, this is the best shoe out there. It rivals the La Sportiva Miura as the best all-round shoe at this present time. If this is your only pair of shoes then you won’t be disappointed.

The only real problem with this shoe is the price. It’s a great shoe but it’s a lot of money to spend on a pair of climbing shoes specifically for long routes or long lasting sessions.

If you’re looking for something that can give you the benefits of a high-performance sport climbing shoe then this isn’t the shoe for you. It’s the versatility of this shoe that makes it so good.

What is the Best All-Round Aggressive Climbing Shoe?

The best all-round aggressive climbing shoe has been a staple for many years. It hasn’t moved in the rankings and has only been upgraded over the years. If you’re looking for a shoe that is slightly less comfortable than the La Sportive Katana Lace but offers more overall performance (other than in crack climbing) then read on.

La Sportiva Miura

• Shoe Type: Aggressive
• Upper: Leather
• Rubber: Vibram XS Edge rubber
• Good for: Versatility, precision, general comfort, edging, smearing
• Bad for: Slightly uncomfortable toe box, do not stretch length ways, crack climbing

The La Sportiva Miura has been known for years as one of, if not THE most well rounded shoe on the market. If you’re looking for a shoe that’s the best at one particular thing, then this isn’t it. But as a jack of all trades shoe you’re looking in the right place. Not only that but it’s great for wide feet.

For the durability, the price is certainly affordable. Durability is not an issue if you don’t crack climb as this is not their intended purpose. As long as you’re treating this shoe correctly, they’ll last you a long time. The upper material on this shoe is made of leather and the rubber used on the sole of the shoe is 4mm of Vibram© XS Edge which is a very durable type of rubber.

The shoes are quite uncomfortable when you’re breaking them in and stretching them with your feet. But after a few sessions of wearing them they’re fine. If you were to wear them all day you might start to feel a bit of pain, but for short term climbing the shoe isn’t that bad. It’s got three Velcro straps which help you adjust the shoe to your foot’s shape. But as it’s a curved shoe, it will start to get uncomfortable after two or three hours.

The precision of these shoes are excellent. Sometimes you feel like you’re wearing no shoes at all because you know where your big toe is, and you can feel exactly where to place it on even the thinnest of edges. If your foot slips off a hold you 100% cannot blame the shoe – it’s definitely bad footwork that caused the problem!

This is also great for smearing and pockets, however it’s not as downturned on the toe as some other high-end sport climbing shoes.

Should You Buy Velcro, Lace-Up or Slip-On Climbing Shoes?

Once you’ve decided on the aggressiveness of the shoe you’re getting you’ll probably be wondering whether you should get laces or not. There are three different ways to tighten or wear your climbing shoe. These are by using laces, using a Velcro strap, or by using slip-on climbing shoes which have some sort of elastic built in to keep the shoes from falling off your feet.

Laces

Laces are the most versatile due to the fact you can loosen them if it gets hot and your feet swell up or if you want to tighten your shoes up to give maximum output/precision. I always advise laces for anyone who’s buying neutral or moderate shoes, especially if it’s for longer routes or all day climbing. This is because you aren’t going to be taking your shoes off as much due to how comfortable the shoes are. You can then readjust the tightness of your shoe at your own leisure.

Velcro Straps

Velcro straps are for ease of use when climbing. They’re easy to take off and put back on in no time. If you want this kind of convenience without the need to tie a knot, these might be your best bet. If you’re not all-day climbing or you’ve got very aggressive shoes, using Velcro or slip-ons might be your best bet.

Slip-Ons

Slip-on shoes are great for sensitivity and are really convenient for taking your shoes off and putting them back on. If you climb on rocks with thin cracks, slip-ons may be perfect for you due to their thin profile.

It’s hard to find climbing shoes that not only fit wider feet with a degree of comfort, but also gives you the performance that aggressive shoes can offer. Luckily for you I’ve not only got wide feet due to my tailor’s bunions, but I’ve also tried on and climbed in quite a few different shoes. Not only that but with the shoes I haven’t climbed in, I’ve done the research for you as well.

If you’re looking for the best aggressive climbing shoe out there at the moment for wide feet then I’d go for the evolv Shaman. It’s the best for sport climbing, overall performance and comfort. If you’re looking for the perfect bouldering shoe for wide feet, my personal favorite are the Scarpa Instinct VS. If you’re in need of a versatile climbing shoe that you can use on any type of climbing then the La Sportiva Miura is the one for you – however you’ll be sacrificing a little bit of comfort from the Evolv Shaman.

You can go straight to the shoe that fits your needs to look at the review or just continue reading from here to find out everything.

Page Jumps

• Overall Climbing Shoe for Wide Feet & Sport Climbing: evolv Shaman
• Bouldering: Scarpa Instinct VS
• Well-Rounded: La Sportiva Miura

Overall Climbing Shoe for Wide Feet & Sport Climbing: evolv Shaman

The evolv Shaman was designed by Chris Sharma, one of the best and most famous climbers of all time. This shoe won the 2012 Climbing magazine Editor’s Choice award, which speaks for itself really.

• Shoe Type: Aggressive
• Upper: Synthetic suede
• Rubber: TRAX XT-5 rubber
• Good for: Precision, comfort, vegans, lightweight, overhangs, sport climbing
• Bad for: Small foot holds, slab climbing

The Shaman’s performance is high-level, giving you great sensitivity and precision while being able to house a wider foot. Not only does it feel comfortable for a wider foot but it feels tight at the tip of your toe which is where it helps you with sensitivity.

Personally, I love how light the shoe is while also being so supportive at the front of your feet. Recent upgrades to the toe patch and front strap have made the Shaman great at hard toe hooks.

The evolv Shaman seems to work well on sticking to overhangs which is probably where Chris Sharma comes in. It has a thicker rubber (4.2mm) than a lot of other technical shoes, but once you’ve broken them in you don’t really notice any lack of precision. The upgraded toe patch really helps toe hooking on overhanging rocks.

When on vertical walls or slabs, the Shaman has trouble with small footholds. This seems to be due to the thick rubber on the edge of the toe. When trying to place your big toe onto a smaller hold, the thicker rubber seems to lose form and unfortunately you won’t be able to trust them too much if the hold is unusually small.

Another upgrade the Shaman has seen recently has been on the heel. The heel rubber was originally quite thick, but since its upgrade from the previous model, the shoe has no problem with technical heel hooks. It’s also very comfortable around the heel while still being tight enough to feel precise.

The evolv Shaman is hands down the most comfortable shoe on this list, even with its technical ability. Because of this it’s the shoe I would recommend most for anyone who has wide feet and does a lot of different types of climbing (other than for slabs).

Aggressive shoes often feel uncomfortable around the edge of the foot (where a tailor’s bunion forms), but the Shaman never seemed to cause any problems here. Personally, I don’t have any Shaman’s as I love slab climbing and I am fine substituting the comfort it offers for other attributes.

Bouldering: Scarpa Instinct VS

The Scarpa Instinct VS is the shoe I use the most, mainly because I boulder more often than not. It’s my favorite shoe and is one of the most popular shoes on the market today. I have no problem wearing these with my wide feet.

• Shoe Type: Aggressive
• Upper: Synthetic leather
• Rubber: Vibram XS Edge rubber
• Good for: Bouldering, comfort, slabs, overhangs, heel hooking
• Bad for: Heat, breaking in period, thick rand

The Instinct VS has one of the best heel designs out there due to its tight fit and amazing ability to help heel hooks. There’s something beautiful about the balance it has between the thick heel and the rubber on the side which makes it perfect for heel hooks. I haven’t found another shoe as precise in the heel yet.

Small footholds are dealt with very well by the Instinct, due to the power and precision of the toe box. The rand (the thinner layer of rubber than wraps over the toe of the shoe) is thicker on this shoe, which unfortunately made it less sensitive.

Another negative point to be made about the Scarpa Instinct VS is the time it takes to break them in. I’ve had many pairs of these shoes and cringe every time I know I’ve got to get a new pair. The synthetic rubber takes a while to stretch out. This is also a reason why I don’t like climbing in the heat in these shoes – the rubber doesn’t stretch a lot so you can get uncomfortable when your feet swell.

I do love, however, how easy it is to take the shoes on and off without feeling uncomfortable as long as the shoes aren’t new or I’m not climbing in high heat. Generally these shoes are very comfortable and very easy to fit. I also find them to be very durable due to the thickness of the rubber.

Last but not least, the performance of this shoe is fantastic on both slabs and overhangs. Not only is the toe great for small footholds but there’s a toe patch which is designed specifically for toe hooking. It’s the perfect bouldering shoe.

Well-Rounded: La Sportiva Miura

The La Sportiva Miura has been known for years as one of, if not THE most well rounded shoe on the market. If you’re looking for a shoe that’s the best at one particular thing, then this isn’t it. But as a jack of all trades shoe you’re looking in the right place. Not only that but it’s great for wide feet.

• Shoe Type: Aggressive
• Upper: Leather
• Rubber: Vibram XS Edge rubber
• Good for: Versatility, precision, general comfort, edging, smearing
• Bad for: Slightly uncomfortable toe box, do not stretch length ways

For the durability, the price is certainly affordable. Durability is not an issue if you don’t crack climb as this is not their intended purpose. As long as you’re treating this shoe correctly, they’ll last you a long time. The upper material on this shoe is made of leather and the rubber used on the sole of the shoe is 4mm of Vibram© XS Edge which is a very durable type of rubber.

The shoes are quite uncomfortable when you’re breaking them in and stretching them with your feet. But after a few sessions of wearing them they’re fine. If you were to wear them all day you might start to feel a bit of pain, but for short term climbing the shoe isn’t that bad. It’s got three Velcro straps which help you adjust the shoe to your foot’s shape. But as it’s a curved shoe, it will start to get uncomfortable after two or three hours.

The precision of these shoes are excellent. Sometimes you feel like you’re wearing no shoes at all because you know where your big toe is, and you can feel exactly where to place it on even the thinnest of edges. If your foot slips off a hold you 100% cannot blame the shoe – it’s definitely bad footwork that caused the problem!

This is also great for smearing and pockets, however it’s not as downturned on the toe as some other high-end sport climbing shoes.

Eczema can be very painful, especially when it’s on your hands. You use your hands repetitively throughout the day, but nothing compares to when you’re on the climbing wall. Not only are you constantly using your hands when climbing, you’ll also most likely be using chalk. The problem is it’s hard to understand which climbing chalks are the best for eczema and what are the worst climbing chalks for eczema.

Don’t worry, after much research I’ve found the answer. Although I don’t have eczema, I’ve trawled through many different pages of the internet to find out which chalks work and don’t work for eczema and bad skin. We’ll also be talking about ways to help keep the skin on your hands in the most optimum shape it can be.

The best climbing chalks for eczema are your standard chalks without the added, harmful drying agents if possible.  The most recommended climbing chalk for eczema is Friction Labs Unicorn Dust. Although slightly pricey, it does not contain any additives or drying agents You may think this will hinder your climbing performance but it doesn’t. This climbing chalk is renowned for its high-level performance. The Friction Labs Unicorn Dust is by far the best chalk on the market, not only for eczema but in general.

Let’s have a look at this climbing chalk, then talk about the types of chalks you should avoid and I’ll also give you a skin care routine that you should use after you’ve been climbing.

Friction Labs Unicorn Dust

If you’re willing to spend a bit more for the best chalking experience possible while keeping your eczema at bay , I’d go for the FrictionLabs Unicorn Dust Fine Chalk. Before I tried this stuff I always thought it was way too expensive for a chalk, surely it can’t be that good compared to most other brands. Eventually I bought a pack just to try it out because I’d heard so many climbers go on about how good it was. And the only times I’ve used something different since I first bought a pack is when it’s been out of stock. If you’re a frequent climber then I would seriously consider buying this stuff, not only because it’s good for eczema but because it’s probably the best chalk out there today.

FrictionLabs boasts that their Unicorn Dust has no harmful drying agents or additives, giving you the healthiest chalk powder for your hands. They believe they have a “New Standard in Chalk”. They also say that even though they use no drying agents, this works better than those that do. Their motto for this product is “Chalk Up Less, Get Better Grip, Send More” and to be honest with you I can’t fault them. I found that I didn’t need to chalk up as much with this product, so although you are spending a bit more you’re using less chalk over time.

In terms of texture and application, the chalk is very silky and easily gives you a nice even layer across your hands. The powder to chunk ratio was pretty much perfect in my opinion – I like around a 70% to 30% powder to chunk ratio. The powder itself is incredibly fine. I have naturally dry hands and most chalks make my hands feel dry immediately after a session but, although I still found it with this product, I only found it very slightly. It’s also the most secure I’ve felt on a wall with my hands, but maybe that’s just placebo because of how impressed I already was with the chalk. I also found that my hands didn’t feel as dry the next day as they usually did after a climbing session.

The real question is, is it worth the money? In my personal opinion yes it is, especially if you want a chalk that isn’t going to aggravate eczema.

What Type of Climbing Chalks Should You Avoid if You Have Eczema

The worst types of climbing chalks have aggressive drying agents and additives. One such climbing chalk that has these is the Metolius Superchalk. Although this chalk is great for performance, it dries your hands out massively. If you have eczema avoid this chalk at all costs.

Another thing to mention is liquid chalk. Liquid chalk, like hand sanitizer, contains isopropyl alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol disrupts the oil on your skin which dries out your hands. If you have eczema the last thing you want to do is make your hands ever drier than they already are. Therefore you should avoid liquid chalk if you don’t want your eczema to get worse.

How to Care for the Skin on Your Hands before Climbing

Before you climb you should take care of your skin if you have eczema. You should moisturize your hands with a hydrating moisturizer such as Vaseline intensive care. This moisturizer is known to be one of the best moisturizers for eczema. Use this around 20 minutes before you climb to hydrate your skin before your chalk it up.

How to Care for the Skin on Your Hands after Climbing

Chalk is specifically used when we climb to absorb moisture from your hands so that you aren’t as likely to slip when you grab a hold. If you don’t wash chalk off your hands you’ll allow it to keep doing its job – absorbing moisture – which means your hands will keep drying up. This allows for your eczema to become even worse.

Once you’ve washed off the chalk and cleaned your climbing hands after the session, you should moisturize your palm, the back of your hands and your fingers with a balm, oil or lotion.

I’ve tried a few different climbing balms as I have seriously dry skin on my hands. The best I’ve found is actually one of the more affordable ones from climbOn. It’s more than half the price of the one from Climbskin and I think it does just as good of a job.

If my hands are really crusty and dry then I’ll bring out the big guns: petroleum jelly (vaseline). I cover my hands in this and put latex/rubber gloves on for about 20 minutes. Then I take them off and repeat this for a total of 3 times. You’ll be amazed at how much smoother your hands are after doing this. This is my secret weapon.

If you aren’t drinking enough water your skin will be more likely to crack because it will be more dry. Being hydrated also improves your skin’s ability to heal. Skin is also more resilient for those who drink more water than those who are found to be dehydrated. Download a water app on your phone if you have trouble remembering to drink throughout the day. And yes, I mean water, not soda.

What Makes a Good Climbing Chalk?

So, what makes good climbing chalk?

• Texture. Climbing chalks should have a nice texture, the silkier the better. This is so it feels comfortable on the hands.
• Powder to chalk ratio. This is also a matter of opinion, however most of the time people want the best of both worlds.
• Short term hand dryness. Good climbing chalks obviously don’t make your hands feel too dry. If you have eczema, this is one of the main aspects you should consider when buying chalk.
• Chalk application. Application of chalk should be easy. Some chalks take a lot of time to apply because of moisture, or lack of it.
• Long term hand dryness. The better climbing chalks won’t take too much moisture away from hands in the long term. Another aspect you should consider if you have eczema.
• Performance and wall security. How secure the chalk makes you feel on the wall is one of the most important aspects of climbing chalk. The whole point about using climbing chalk is to increase your climbing performance by stopping your hands slipping off holds.

Are you looking for the best climbing shoes for long routes and long lasting sessions? Your usual climbing shoes might not fit your needs in this area, so it’s good to get a pair specifically for these types of situations. The problem is there are so many different pairs of climbing shoes out there now that you’re just not sure which ones to buy. If you’re in the market for a new pair of climbing shoes, it’s critical that you find one that works for your desired reasons – and there are more options than ever.

What are the best climbing shoes for long routes and long lasting sessions?

• La Sportiva Katana Lace
• La Sportiva  Mythos Eco
• Five Ten Anasazi Lace

I’ve tested many different pairs of climbing shoes, having got recommendations from more experienced climbers in the past on what to choose for different aspects of climbing. These three pairs of climbing shoes stand out to me in terms of comfort without sacrificing too much precision and sensitivity – the aspects you’ll mainly need when you’re climbing long routes or when the duration of your climbing session starts to get a bit longer than usual.

All three pairs of shoes are laced, and this is for a good reason. Having laced shows allows you to tighten or untighten your shoes to give your more precision or comfort whenever the time calls for either one. Because we’re going for more comfortable shoes, it’s a must that you buy some with laces just in case you need that extra bit of tightness when the time calls.

Let’s talk about each pair of shoes so you can decide for yourself which pair you’d prefer.

La Sportiva Katana Lace

Based in Italy, La Sportiva is one of the leading climbing shoe manufacturers in the world. They bring innovative designs and high quality products. La Sportiva is a worldwide trusted brand providing top-notch climbing shoes, hiking shoes and other outdoor gear. The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one of the best climbing shoes on the market that has very versatile attributes for all your climbing needs.

• Shoe Type: Moderate
• Upper: Leather/synthetic leather
• Rubber: 4mm Vibram XS Edge
• Good for: Durability, versatility, comfort
• Bad for: Your wallet. The price is quite high.

PROS

The Katana Lace is a moderate shoe with a slightly downturned toe which helps to keep the foot glued into a pocket or pressed into an edge while also keeping the foot feeling comfortable. Due to the moderate arch, your feet feel flat and comfortable 90% of the time. The flatness is also good for crack climbing.

The heel of the shoe is tight, but not so much that you feel uncomfortable; in more of a way like a mother hugs a child she hasn’t seen for a while. This allows your toes to feel more precise as if the weight of your feet is being pushed from your heel down towards the front of your foot.

The Vibram XS Edge rubber on this shoe has made a name for itself as a glue that only unsticks when you pull your foot away. Like the La Sportiva Muira, the Katana has no wow-factor for any particular type of climbing, but it’s the versatility of this shoe that allows you to see its true value.

In terms of long routes and long lasting sessions, this is the best shoe out there. It rivals the La Sportiva Miura as the best all-round shoe at this present time. If this is your only pair of shoes then you won’t be disappointed.

CONS

The real problem with this shoe is the price. It’s a great shoe but it’s a lot of money to spend on a pair of climbing shoes specifically for long routes or long lasting sessions. The other two climbing shoes reviewed in this article are better value for your money – they might not be as good but they make up for that with a MUCH lower price tag.

If you’re looking for something that can give you the benefits of a high-performance sport climbing shoe then this isn’t the shoe for you.

La Sportiva Mythos Eco

The Mythos Eco is another fantastic option for long routes and sessions made by the leading brand La Sportiva. La Sportiva have been making the Mythos for over 25 years and over that time it has be renowned by the world over as the most comfortable climbing shoe out there. Recently it has been updated to use sustainable materials while also keeping its original 25 year old moccasin style shoe.

• Shoe Type: Neutral
• Upper: Leather
• Rubber: 4mm recycled rubber
• Good for: Comfort, crack climbing, the environment
• Bad for: Edging, pockets, sensitivity

PROS

There’s no other more comfortable shoe than the Mythos or the Mythos Eco. You barely feel pain when sticking the toe into a hold.

What the Mythos Eco has over the Mythos is its eco-friendly unique selling point. La Sportiva estimates that they can make just one sheet of its Eco-Rubber for about five sheets of the Vibram rubber that they use on the soles of their Miura and Mythos shoes to name a few.

The shoe is specifically built for a long day’s climbing which is why it’s on this list, and due to its flat sole it’s great for crack climbing. If you’re looking for a shoe that you just want to stand in all day while having a good experience once you get on the wall then this is the shoe for you.

The Mythos Eco is an affordable shoe that’s good for the environment. It provides you all day comfort and would be a perfect shoe for you if all you care about is a climbing shoe that you can wear for long routes or long sessions without much of a problem.

CONS

Climbing on edges and in pockets with the Mythos Eco isn’t easy. There’s little sensitivity around your toe, so slab climbing can be almost impossible depending on the size and protrusion of the footholds.

Five Ten Anasazi Lace

Five Ten is the range of climbing shoes created and designed by Adidas. The branding refers to the 5.10 grade which at one point was the highest grade in climbing. Eventually, as the world saw an improvement in climbing equipment, further grades were added. Adidas has been renowned as a trustworthy, affordable shoe manufacturer for decades and continues to do this today with its range of climbing shoes. The Five Ten Anasazi Lace is proof of this, having been around as a top selling shoe for over 20 years.

• Shoe Type: Moderate
• Upper: Synthetic
• Rubber: Stealth C4 (4.2mm)
• Good for: Versatility, face climbing, crack climbing
• Bad for: Toe hooking, comfort on the heel and on the upper part of your foot compared to other two pairs of shoes mentioned

PROS

The Anasazi Lace was designed for technical face and crack climbing. The shoes aren’t stiff enough to feel too uncomfortable, but are stiff enough to keep your foot sturdy while on the wall. The Stealth C4 rubber sticks to the wall on even the smallest of footholds, giving the wearer the confidence they need on any vertical face.

The shoe is very versatile, giving you comfort along with precision and sensitivity on your toes. The Anasazi Lace has the combination of an unmatched heel cup and rand tensioning system that is the secret to its high-end performance. The tension heel cup is a snug fit, and the rand at the front of the shoe pulls the foot forwards for extra foot sensitivity and power.

This shoe is very affordable and a good addition to your climbing gear for long routes, long sessions, face climbing and crack climbing.

CONS

Unfortunately the Anasazi Lace doesn’t come with a toe hooking patch unlike the Five Ten Anasazi Pro (which is also slightly less comfortable). So therefore toe hooking can be quite difficult.

Although the synthetic material on the upper seems to be very durable, it doesn’t offer the comfort that leather has to offer on the other two pairs of shoes mentioned in this article.

The heel tension cup is great to help the shoe’s performance, but it can make your heel feel slightly uncomfortable at times.

Conclusion

In my personal opinion all of these shoes are a great addition to your climbing gear but it just depends on your own needs. I would only buy the La Sportiva Katana Lace if you were happy using them as your go to shoe most of the time because they are quite pricey. If you’re looking for a pair of shoes for long routes to go alongside your current pair of shoes then I’d think about getting the La Sportiva Mythos Eco or the Five Ten Anasazi Lace.

To have a look at my recommendations on the best climbing shoes click here.

There have been many times on the climbing mats I’ve heard someone say “I’m in so much pain, my shoes are too small!” There could be many reasons for this, but there’s one thing that’s for sure: climbing shoes should not be painful when you wear them. At one point this was happening to me and it actually caused my right foot to develop a bunion on the heel and many other problems throughout my climbing journey. After researching why these problems occurred, I understood what I’d done wrong and how to choose the right size climbing shoes.

So, are your climbing shoes too small? If you are feeling pain when you’re wearing your climbing shoes then your climbing shoes are too small. Wearing uncomfortable climbing shoes is completely different to wearing painful climbing shoes.

If your climbing shoes are uncomfortable, that’s generally ok – this signifies that your toes and heels are usually snug inside your shoe providing a lot of sensitivity on the holds. However, if your shoes are painful, this is your body sending you a message that there is something wrong in that area which can lead to many different problems in the future such as bunions, chronic foot/toe pain such as metatarsalgia (pain in the ball of the foot), in-growing toe nails, and other conditions.

How can you choose the right size climbing shoe? The right size shoe can be found by trying climbing shoes on at certain times of the day and/or after going for a long walk or doing some other kind of exercise. It’s important to note that on hotter days your feet will swell up and therefore cause you more pain, so you may want to buy climbing shoes specifically for different seasons.

Keep reading for more information on how to choose the right climbing shoe, the conditions and injuries associated with wearing shoes that are too tight for you, and other related issues that may interest you.

Page Jumps

• How to Choose the Right Size Climbing Shoe
• Conditions and Problems that can be caused by Climbing Shoes that are too Tight
• Can you Stretch Climbing Shoes that are too Small?
• What Type of Climbing Shoe do You Need?
• Buy Climbing Shoes Depending on the Season
• Climbing Shoes with Laces, Velcro Strap or Slip-Ons
• Kids Climbing Shoes and Their Feet
• Climbing Shoe Information for People with Diabetes
• My Personal Foot Problems Due to Excessively Tight Climbing Shoes

How to Choose the Right Size Climbing Shoe

When you’re in the store trying on climbing shoes, you might find a pair that really suit your style of climbing and feel good to walk around in on the shop floor. Then you put them on and start climbing in them, only to realise you’ve made a grave error due to pain in your feet and can’t return them because of a no-return policy once they’ve been used on the wall. This has happened to me on occasion and I’ve got to say I’ve definitely learnt from it.

First off, we have to wonder why your shoes are ok when you wear them on the shop floor and they aren’t ok once you start climbing. It’s pretty simple, once you start climbing your feet swell up and therefore cause your shoes to feel tighter than they previously were. If they felt snug before, they’ll feel even more uncomfortable (or even painful) now. So how can we avoid this?

Well, there’s something you can do: go for a long walk or do some other sort of exercise that will encourage your feet to swell up before you buy your shoes. If you’re in your local climbing gym and you’re going to buy your shoes from there, it may well be a good idea to actually climb for a little bit with some old or rented shoes and then go and try some on in the shop. This will swell your feet up to the normal amount that would occur when you climb.

Now, the problem people seem to have when choosing a climbing shoe is how tight the shoe should be and how it should feel on your foot. This all depends on preference really, but it’s definitely recommended you wear shoes that aren’t painful but are snug enough on your heels and toes to be able to feel toe holds and other foot holds.

Some people prefer comfort over precision – this is why the La Sportiva Mythos (which is a classic climbing shoe) is bought frequently and is known as one of the most comfortable shoes on the market. However, some people sacrifice comfort for precision and sensitivity by buying other shoes like the Scarpa Furia Air specifically for bouldering.

If you have shoes that are very sensitive and precise but they are painful, this is most likely going to affect your climbing ability and may even cause problems for your feet, so you should probably sacrifice the precision of the shoe for comfort.

I’ve spent years finding out the shoes that work best for me. Before you decide on what climbing shoes you want, you might want to check out my recommendations.

Conditions and Problems that can be caused by Climbing Shoes that are too Tight

Here are the problems caused by tight climbing shoes. I’ve written another detailed article that describes how you can care for your feet before, after and while you climb.

Bunions

Climbers notoriously have more bunions than non-climbers, however bunions are thought to be hereditary in most cases but the condition can be helped along by pressure from your climbing shoe pushing against a joint in your foot. Bunions can be surgically removed; however there isn’t much point in doing this if you are going to repeat the process of climbing afterwards.

Often, bunions aren’t much of a problem, causing small amounts of pain here and there. I currently have a bunion on my heel caused by overuse of small rock climbing shoes – it doesn’t cause me many problems these days, however.

In-Growing Toe Nails

Shoes that are too small or too narrow can cause in-growing toe nails. In-growing toe nails can be very painful and very often cause infection around the nail which then causes the toe to become inflamed and swollen. It’s very hard to climb with an in-grown toe nail.

In-grown toe nails can be treated with surgery which is what I had to endure after I experienced an in-grown toe nail in my big toe due to an open fracture underneath the toe nail. Since then I’ve had many problems with my big toe such as the whole nail falling off and I experience a small amount of pain when climbing which could be caused by the open fracture I experienced in around 2012.

Metatarsalgia

Metatarsalgia is a condition in which an achy or sharp pain is felt around the ball of one’s foot. This condition is usually invisible to the naked eye; however the pain can be quite severe. If you believe you have metatarsalgia you should consult a podiatrist or your GP. It’s advised to use ice on the affected area and to rest it from the activities that aggravate it most.

Corns and Calluses

These can be very ugly to look at and cause infection if the wounds are open. Once infected they can be very painful. They are there to form a barrier against a shoe that’s too tight; so it’s pretty much your foot’s way to defend itself from friction and pressure. Unless your corns/calluses become infected, they are usually harmless and can be left alone. However, they are ugly to look at so you can buy a callus removing tool online which you can use at home to rid yourself of them.

Morton’s Neuroma

Morton’s neuroma is a condition that causes numbness, shooting or stabbing pain, and/or tingling in the foot which is sometimes relieved once you take off your tight climbing shoes. Some people explain the symptoms to be like feeling a stone is in your shoe even though there isn’t one.

It is believed to be caused by the plantar nerve in the foot becoming trapped by the transverse metatarsal ligament usually due to wearing footwear that is too tight.

Treating Morton’s neuroma can include ice, rest, over the counter painkillers, raise the affected foot when possible, and wear wider shoes with metatarsal pads/insoles. It isn’t advised to wear tight shoes or high heels if you have this condition.

Nail Bed Infection

Infections in the nail bed are usually caused by the attempted alleviation of pain of in-grown toe nails, again caused by the wrong size climbing shoe. When you trim your toe nails for climbing or if you ever try to alleviate the pain caused by an in-growing toe nail, please be careful that you don’t cut into the skin and open up a wound.

A few days after the next time you go climbing, you may find that your nail exudes a small (or large) amount of puss due to infection. It may also be quite painful. Infections can be treated by seeing your doctor for antibiotics. Putting your foot in salt water will also help heal the infection and reduce swelling/pain in the afflicted area.

Subungual Hematoma

I once had this condition – it sounds bad and looks pretty bad too but it’s not. You may find that the wrong size climbing shoes cause bleeding under your toe nail, especially after a session. It feels very painful to climb on and your toe nail looks like it’s bruised underneath. What’s usually happened is that you’ve got a blood blister underneath there and it’s popped causing a subungual hematoma. It’s not much to worry about, just try not to get it infected – treat it by putting your foot or toe in salt water for a good while every now and then.

Toe Deformities

Toe deformities are common in climbers. Many climbers have claw and hammer toes due to the shoes being tight and forcing them in a certain direction. Due to this, the foot starts to adapt and permanently shapes to the position the toes are in. There’s not much you can do about this if you’re a climber other than wear less tight shoes, however even snug shoes will probably deform your toes slightly.

Can you Stretch Climbing Shoes that are too Small?

Most parts of a climbing shoe are very hard to stretch permanently other than the upper part if it’s made of leather. Synthetic materials used on the upper parts of the climbing shoe are most likely created to not stretch, along with the very stiff rubber used on the soles and toe of the climbing shoe. Even if the upper is leather, the lining may be made of a synthetic material which cannot be stretched – this is the case with the La Sportiva Miuras.

The best way I’ve found to stretch the upper parts of climbing shoes that are actually able to be stretched is by putting your climbing shoes on while you’re in a hot shower. Continue to wear the shoes around the house for a while afterwards, leave to dry for a bit and then climb in your damp shoes a day or two later. This should hopefully stretch the uppers out. The upper part of the climbing shoe may not be your problem though, so this could be a waste of time.

You may just need to sell your climbing shoes on a local forum and buy some more shoes that fit properly by going through the process explained in this article above.

What Type of Climbing Shoe do you Need?

There are three types of climbing shoe you can get. These are neutral, moderate, and aggressive. It depends on your climbing capability as to what type of climbing shoe you should get. It also depends on the types of climbs you usually do.

Neutral

Neutral climbing shoes are great for beginners and climbers who climb V3 grades and below. They have a flat-ish surface on the sole and are usually quite comfortable. They can be worn all day without any problems. However, they aren’t as precise on toe holds as moderate or aggressive shoes.

Moderate

Moderate climbing shoes are good for intermediate climbers or climbers who need a better grip on toe holds. These shoes aren’t as comfortable as neutral shoes and usually aren’t as durable either.

Aggressive

Aggressive shoes are for the more advanced climber who needs the extra precision and sensitivity on toe holds and overhangs. They are not typically as comfortable as neutral shoes and moderate shoes, nor are they as durable.

Buy Climbing Shoes Depending on the Season

I have a set of laced climbing shoes specifically for the summer. They’re the same shoe I would usually wear just half a size bigger. This is because I know for a fact that my feet swell up to an almighty size when it’s hot. Having laces means I can control how tight the shoes are on my feet a lot easier than I could do with a Velcro strap.

I would definitely advise that you at least think about getting a second pair of shoes for summer/winter or factor in how far away the colder or hotter seasons are before you buy climbing shoes. If it’s already hot weather and you’re going to buy climbing shoes to fit correctly, you may want to think about how loose your shoes may be in colder weather. This is why I believe it’s best to have two pairs of shoes if you climb a lot in different temperatures.

Climbing Shoes with Laces, Velcro Strap or Slip-On

Laces

Laces are great for your all day climber who needs to loosen their shoes if their feet are too swollen or tighten their climbing shoe for the perfect fit and extra precision.

Velcro Strap

Velcro straps are great for taking off your shoes and putting them back on fast when bouldering without the need to take a lot of time tying laces. You can also loosen or tighten the strap for comfort/precision.

Slip-On

For maximum convenience regarding taking your shoes off and putting them back on as fast as possible, slip-on shoes are your go to. Slip-on shoes are great for climbing in small cracks due to how thin they make your foot.

Kids Climbing Shoes and Their Feet

It’s important to make sure you choose the right climbing shoes for your child. Their feet are very delicate compared to an adult because they’re still growing and developing. You don’t want to get your children climbing shoes that are too tight or painful as they may develop conditions in their feet that can’t be undone – these problems in their feet can then turn into problems in other areas of their body such as their spine (the feet and spine are very closely connected when it comes to injuries).

When you’re buying in the climbing store, get your child to try a pair of shoes on and ask them how their shoes feel. If they say they feel at all uncomfortable you should get them to try on a bigger size. You want your child to learn how to climb while developing in a healthy way. They don’t need to be 100% precise on the wall if that means they’re also going to develop problems with their body in the future due to the wrong size climbing shoe.

For more info on climbing with kids I’ve written a Bouldering for Kids and Toddlers article which you can find here.

Climbing Shoe Information for People with Diabetes

If you have diabetes you should not be wearing climbing shoes (or any footwear for that matter) that are too tight. Please consult your GP or doctor before you start climbing and ask for their advice.

My Personal Foot Problems Due to Excessively Tight Climbing Shoes

When I started climbing I was under the impression that your shoes needed to be as tight as possible to feel the toe holds on the wall. I was in pain every session but fought through it. Due to wearing excessively tight climbing shoes, I’ve developed a massive bunion on my foot, in-grown toe nails, nail bed infection, a subungual hematoma which also caused my big toe nail to fall off, and general foot/toe pain. I can also see quite a bit of toe deformity on most of my toes.

If I could go back in time and tell my former self what to do I’d let myself know that it’s better to be in snug shoes that feel slightly uncomfortable than in lots of pain. Not only do you climb a lot better due to the fact you aren’t grimacing on every toe hold you plant your foot on, you’re also having a lot more fun climbing.

Choosing the right shoe to climb or boulder is sometimes hard if you aren’t aware of the properties of climbing shoes. I’ve compiled a list of the 6 best indoor rock climbing shoes that you can buy in 2020 in different categories. In this article I’ll be talking about a few different aspects of each shoe. These aspects are:

• Overall Rating

This is the overall rating of the shoe out of 5. The overall rating is specifically about the shoe as an all round climbing shoe for all different types of indoor climbing. It also takes into account all other aspects of the shoe below.

• Value

This is how much the shoe is worth monetarily compared to how much I believe it’s worth when you apply it with the other aspects.

• Durability

How long will the shoe last before it starts to break down? What materials make up the shoe?

• Comfort

Can the shoe been worn all day without a problem or do they cause your heel and toes to ache?

• Precision

This is where we ask if the shoes good enough at finding the smallest of foot holds and staying on them.

So, what are the best indoor rock climbing shoes of 2019? The shoe that scored the best overall rating was the La Sportiva Miura. It’s a great all round shoe for all different types of climbing – indoor and outdoor! If you’re looking for a shoe that’s comfortable and precise, the Scarpa Instinct VS is my go to for bouldering shoes, but as an all round shoe it’s definitely beaten by the La Sportiva Miura. If you’re on a tight budget but you still want a good enough climbing shoe, I would suggest you lean towards buying the Scarpa Velocity climbing shoes. If you’re more into sport climbing, the best pair of climbing shoes would probably be the Five Ten Anasazi Pro. If you’re a beginner and you’re still ‘being shown the ropes’ (sorry for the pun), then I would recommend the La Sportiva Tarantula for its comfort, value and moisture management. Finally, the most comfortable shoe out there that we can find without worrying about the other aspects too much is the La Sportiva Mythos, a classic known for its all day use and durability.

For a breakdown of each shoe considering each aspect mentioned above, please continue reading. Links are included to Amazon where you can buy each shoe. All shoes mentioned are either unisex or have a women’s version.

Page Jumps

• Best All Round Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Miura
• Best Bouldering Shoe – Scarpa Instinct VS
• Best All Round Budget Climbing Shoe – Scarpa Velocity
• Best Sport Climbing Shoe – Five Ten Anasazi Pro
• Best Climbing Shoe for Beginners – La Sportiva Tarantula
• Most Comfortable Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Mythos

Best All Round Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Miura

Overall Rating – 5 out of 5

The La Sportiva Miura (link to check price on Amazon) is so versatile. It’s perfect if you only want one pair of climbing shoes for many different types of indoor climbing. Although it may not be the best bouldering shoe out there or even the best lead climbing shoe, as a jack of all trades shoe it really stands out. Alex Honnold also wears these shoes from time to time, so it shows these shoes can also work very well outdoors.

Value

The La Sportiva Miura doesn’t come cheap – it’s quite expensive, but the versatility that it offers is probably worth the money if you need an all round shoe that’s going to give you the edge on those more budget all round shoes.

Durability

I have a couple of friends who have had these for 1-2 years and have said the durability on these is absolutely incredible. One of them is thinking about getting his resoled sometime soon as he doesn’t feel the need to get rid of an expensive pair of shoes. As long as you’re treating this shoe correctly, they’ll last you a long time. The upper material on this shoe is made of leather – which as you probably know is very durable. The rubber used on the sole of the shoe is 4mm of Vibram© XS Edge which is a durable rubber.

Comfort

The shoes are quite uncomfortable when you’re breaking them in and stretching them with your feet. But to say the shoes are made of durable rubber on the soles and leather on the top, they’re surprisingly comfortable. If you were to wear them all day you might start to feel a bit of pain, but for short term climbing the shoe isn’t actually that bad. It’s got three Velcro straps which help you adjust the shoe to your foot’s shape. But as it’s a curved shoe, it will start to get uncomfortable after an hour or two.

Precision

The precision of these shoes are excellent. Sometimes you feel like you’re wearing no shoes at all because you know where your big toe is within the shoe, and you can feel exactly where to place it on even the thinnest of edges. If your foot slips off a hold you 100% cannot blame the shoe – it’s definitely bad footwork that caused the problem!

Best Bouldering Shoe – Scarpa Instinct VS

Overall Rating – 4 out of 5

As an all round climbing shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS (link to check price on Amazon) is good alternative to the Muira. It’s very durable and holds a good amount of precision on the toe. It’s the shoe I wear most because it’s, in my opinion, the perfect bouldering shoe! Don’t get me wrong, there are more precise shoes out there for short, steep routes. But the Scarpa Instinct VS are so comfy for a more precise shoe. The Scarpa Instinct VS-R shoes are a substitute just as good.

Value

It’s quite an expensive shoe, but if you’re specifically looking for a bouldering shoe for indoors or outdoors then it’s worth the money. If you’re looking to buy climbing shoes that are more versatile, you should definitely go for the La Sporiva Muiras. These shoes are my favorite shoe because I boulder often.

Durability

The upper material is made of microfiber, which is lighter but less durable than leather. The Scarpa Instinct VS has been shown overall to have quite a bit of durability. This, unfortunately sacrifices a bit of precision. However, it’s not enough for me to warrant buying more precise shoes and spending more money or losing too much comfort.

Comfort

The shoes are comfortable, however when your feet swell up due to heat you can really feel it as the shoes don’t seem as stretchy as your typical beginner shoes. The Velcro straps on the shoe help make it easier to take the shoes on and off in between problems if the shoes get too uncomfortable.

Precision

If you’re looking for a sensitive or precise shoe then you will get one here, it isn’t the best but for me it’s precise enough alongside the durability and comfort of the shoe as well.

Best All Round Budget Climbing Shoe – Scarpa Velocity

Overall Rating 4 out of 5

Value

The Scarpa Velocity (link to check price on Amazon) climbing shoe is definitely worth the money to say how cheap it is but how good it is for various different types of climbs. If you don’t want to spend much money but you want an all round shoe, here’s your answer. I wouldn’t use these outside though, they’re definitely for indoor rock climbing.

Durability

The shoe is generally quite durable if only used indoors, although the upper is made of microfiber – however the upper isn’t usually the problem when it comes to climbing shoes. These will last around 6 months to a year if you’re climbing 2 or 3 times a week.

Comfort

I had a pair of these a year or two ago and I can honestly say these were very comfortable. The shoe felt like a slipper and I never really had any problems on the wall with my toe or my heel. There are two Velcro straps to help adjust the shoe to your foot. I could spend all day in these without a problem.

Precision

Don’t rely on these for precision unless you’re going to get a smaller fit that sacrifices the comfort of this shoe. You can also tighten the Velcro straps for slightly more precision.

Best Sport Climbing Shoe – Five Ten Anasazi Pro

Overall Rating – 4 out of 5

The Five Ten Anasazi Pro (link to check price on Amazon) is ideal for indoor bouldering due to its aggressive arch and precise fit. It’s very good at edging and smearing on all holds due to the outsole being made of Stealth C4 rubber. There’s a Stealth Mi6 rubber toe patch on the shoe that is a super addition for toe hooking. It’s a great all round shoe.

Value

It’s not too expensive to say how good this shoe is at versatility especially when climbing indoors. It’s actually cheaper than the La Sportiva Miura but it just isn’t as good overall. If you want shoes specifically for sport climbing and/or overhangs then these are definitely the ones you want to go for.

Durability

The shoe is very durable due to the synthetic leather on the upper part of the shoe and 4.2mm worth of Stealth® C4 rubber on the sole.

Comfort

The tongue of the shoe is made out of a breathable material to get rid of moisture. The toe isn’t downturned too aggressively so it’s generally quite comfortable.

Precision

Although the rubber is quite thick, due to the stickiness of the rubber the shoe is actually very precise. It’s also lightweight which is another bonus towards the precision of this shoe. The rubber toe patch that’s already been mentioned allows for very precise toe holds to be used.

Best Climbing Shoe for Beginners – La Sportiva Tarantula

Overall Rating – 3 out of 5

Value

The La Sportiva Tarantula (link to check price on Amazon) is a very cheap climbing shoe, with a neutral sole that’s quite comfortable and durable. It’s a great beginner’s climbing shoe. The shoe can be used indoors or outdoors for all different types of climbing and as a beginner’s shoe it’s actually quite precise.

Durability

The sole is made of FriXion® rubber which is said to be long lasting and I have heard from a few people who have had a pair that they’re happy with the durability as a beginner’s shoe.

Comfort

It’s a very comfortable shoe that has an unlined upper which is great for moisture management. Your feet won’t become mangled; however the shoe arch is aggressive enough for a beginner to perform at a good enough ability while feeling comfortable.

Precision

Obviously this shoe won’t be as precise as most of the others mentioned in this article – it’s a beginner’s shoe in a low price range. The comfort of the shoe sacrifices some of the sensitivity and precision. However, the FriXion® rubber is quite sticky compared to many of the other materials used in beginner’s shoes.

Most Comfortable Climbing Shoe – La Sportiva Mythos

Overall Rating – 3.5 out of 5

The La Sportiva Mythos (link to check price on Amazon) is the best climbing shoe for comfort on the market today, but it lacks in precision for foot holds. If you’re looking for an all day shoe then this is your best bet, but you’re sacrificing some of your climbing ability. It’s another great shoe for a beginner who is happy spending a bit more money than they would on the La Sportiva Tarantula.

Value

The La Sportiva Mythos is still one of the best selling climbing shoes and you can see why – it’s not amazingly expensive and it’s very comfortable for all day use. Although you’re sacrificing precision for comfort, you can still climb in this shoe without too much of a problem. The durability of this shoe definitely makes it worth the money.

Durability

These shoes use laces and many people have commented on how durable the lacing system is. The outsole is made of Vibram which is known as a durable material when used in climbing shoes. The upper part is made of suede leather – a highly durable material that can be used in all terrain without much problem. This climbing shoe is highly durable.

Comfort

If you’re looking for the most comfortable shoe you can find while getting a bit of a climbing edge, then the La Sportiva Mythos is the climbing shoe for you. If you’re climbing all day then you shouldn’t have many problems indoors or outdoors with these. If your feet swell up due to heat, the leather will stretch with your foot.

Precision

Lacks precision on holds – good in cracks and general crag climbing, however bad at edging and smearing. I wouldn’t recommend more advanced climbers use this shoe.